The Secret Of Powdering

from makeup

Ages ago, powder came in a brown compact and was a light pink. It was a horrible match for most skin—you could see it from a block away! Today, you can set makeup with powders that are almost invisible. Powders come in a wide variety of colours and textures, from very sheer types to heavy foundation and powder combos.

Setting Foundation

Setting foundation is basically applying powder on top of liquid foundation so that it sets into skin. This is important because you don't want the foundation to move after you've spent time applying it to perfection, and due to your body heat or in warm weather it is sure to run. The trick is setting it so it doesn't look heavy or obvious. This is where a lot of women go wrong. The foundation starts off looking great and suddenly you've aged twenty years because you've applied too much powder. (With no foundation, powder alone doesn't have the same aging effect.) If you have great-looking skin a little concealer under the eyes and a dusting of powder is probably all you need.

Choosing a Powder

Different powders and tools will give you a different effect depending on your skin type. For oily skin, look for powders that contain silica or cornstarch to absorb excess oil. With dark skin, I always use two different colors to set foundation because darker women usually have several different skin tones. The forehead tends to be a lot darker than the apples of the cheeks, and the forehead may have a red undertone where the apples may have an olive undertone. Very dark women do have to accommodate their skin tones and use a lighter powder for the center of the face and a darker color for the outside of the face like around the hairline, temples, cheekbones, and jawline.

Pressed powder

Pressed powder is definitely the best type of powder to keep with you during the day. Most pressed powders contain oils and binding agents to hold the powder in place. If you apply powder outside of your home, it's the least likely kind to get everywhere, especially on your clothes. Thank goodness for makeup technology!

Loose powder

Loose powder creates a youthful finish and is a great choice for sensitive skin because it doesn't contain a lot of the extras like oils that are necessary in pressed powders to keep the powder in a pressed form. This is my ideal choice—the sheerer the better—using just enough to set foundation. Loose powders come in a variety of colours and are easier to match to skin because they can be applied so lightly that you see the skin coming through. They do also come in heavier forms for more coverage if necessary.

Wet/Dry powder

This is usually found in compact form. It's basically a heavily pigmented, very dense powder. Great for Asian women who want a matte finish with coverage but hate the feeling of foundation. Apply it dry for medium coverage; to apply it wet, dampen a clean wedge sponge with water, squeeze away excess, and apply to skin for heavy coverage. After it dries it's set.

Translucent powder

Available in loose and pressed form, a true translucent powder has no color or bulk to it at all and creates the sheerest setting for foundation. I like it for light to medium skin tones, but for darker Asian women it can look a little ashy if it has any sort of white pigment to it. I prefer ones that are finely milled and preferably in loose form with a tiny bit of yellow undertone for Asian women to create the most natural look.

Under-eye powder

Using a finer powder (one with a very soft texture) for under the eyes is essential if the skin under your eyes has fine lines or is dry. More and more companies have developed specific under-eye powders.

Wet powder

This is fun new technology. This powder looks like normal powder but feels cold and wet to the touch and is a great skin refresher when applied. However, it does mix oddly with some foundations that contain oil or silica. I recommend using it with a water-based foundation. I've also seen it in bronzer form. Wet powders have a sheer finish— great for hot summer days or pregnant women who need to feel cooler constantly.

Powder Puff

Puffs will deposit too much product if you let them. To get a lighter application of powder, pick up powder with the puff and rub off the excess powder on your other hand. This way you control the amount of powder you use. To apply it to your face, press the puff gently onto the skin in a rocking motion (picture a boat in the ocean rocking in waves). Puffs are great for travelling, touching up at work, or during a night out on the town.

Brush

Most ladies use brushes to apply powder, as it gives the most controlled application and deposits a small amount of powder. This way you still look natural and not cakey. Choose a large powder brush and make sure it's high quality and really soft. Your best options are brushes with hairs made of taklon (a high-end synthetic fiber), goat, squirrel, or sable. Avoid rough brushes; not only will their bristles irritate skin, they will not deposit powder evenly. Pick up powder using your brush, shake off any excess by lightly tapping the handle with your finger close to the bristles, and apply powder in a downward motion going along the growth of the hair of your face. Make sure to keep brushes clean.

Touching up Oily Skin

Most Asian women get oily during the day they go straight to the powder and apply it directly on top of the oil, usually on and around the nose, forehead, and chin. This is a mistake, especially when using coloured powders because if they are applied to an oily surface the powder will darken and the oily areas will appear to be darker. Instead, use something to blot off excess oil, such as tissue or blotting papers (I prefer ones that don't have powders on them already) before reapplying powder. If you also need to reapply foundation or concealer, apply a small amount of concealer to cover any imperfections (concealers that are in a stick or cake form will hold on to oily skin better than a liquid concealer), then finish with powder (look for powders that contain silica or cornstarch, as they'll absorb access oil).